Use a straight edge like this metal ruler to verify that your board will be able to pass through smoothly. Insert the rail bit into the router, and adjust the fence so that lines up with the bearing. It also allows you to clean up any tear out with the stile bit later on.
STILES AND RAILS ON DOORS FULL
The square stock will give you full support through the cut instead of putting pressure on a small angled edge. Use the rail (or cope) bits on the ends of the rails first. These pieces will be essential for getting the perfect router bit height! You can test the exact placement of the tongue and groove on these scrap pieces before cutting into the real thing.
STILES AND RAILS ON DOORS HOW TO
How to set up rail and stile bits Save the scrapsĪfter milling the lumber for the rails and stiles and cutting them to length, set aside the scraps. The board is held at an exact 90 degree angle to the fence to prevent tilting, and tall handles keep your hands at a safe distance from the spinning blade. A sacrificial board prevents tear out and the toggle clamp holds the board down flat from the top. The long plexiglass guide spans across the fence on both sides of the router bit to keep the sled straight throughout the cut. Video can't be loaded because JavaScript is disabled: How to Make a Coping Sled | Woodworking Tools () You can also make your own coping sled! The video below shows you how. You can buy a coping sled like this one from Rockler, which is what I used for my cabinet doors. Even worse, since the narrow end may not be fully supported by the fence, the bit can grab the board and send it spinning back at you! If the board tilts as it hits the spinning bit, it can create a crooked profile which will result in a crooked door.
But setting them up in your router table can be a little tricky! What is a coping sled?Ī coping sled supports the narrow end of the rail to keep it straight through the cut and prevents both tear out and kick back. When you buy a set of rail and stile router bits, they're designed to fit together perfectly.
It should be the same width as the rails (including the tenon) or slightly smaller to allow space for wood glue. The center panel is typically made from ¼" MDF or plywood, and fits snugly in the groove on all four sides to form the cabinet door. This is the set I used, which creates a chamfered edge around the inside panel. The stile bit is used on all the pieces (not just the stiles) to create the corresponding groove for the tenon and panel. The rail bit creates the coped ends of the rail by cutting a tenon as well as the decorative profile. Rail and stile bits are also known as cope and stick bits. The tongue on the end of the rails interlocks with the groove on the stile, providing plenty of surface area for wood glue to hold the pieces together without fasteners. Rail and stile router bits create a decorative profile along the inside edge of the rails and stiles, as well as the groove for the center panel.
STILES AND RAILS ON DOORS DOWNLOAD
Learn how to calculate the length of the rails, stiles and center panel in this tutorial! Don't forget to download the free worksheet to help keep track of all your measurements. The rails run between the stiles horizontally to create the top and bottom of the door. They run the entire length of the door from top to bottom, so you don't see the end grain when viewed from the side. The stiles are the vertical pieces on the outside of the door. Rail and stile widths can vary depending on the cabinet door style, but are typically 2 to 2 ½ inches wide. Rails and stiles frame the center panel of a door. Please visit my disclosures page for more information. Purchases made through these links may earn me a small commission at no additional cost to you. This post contains affiliate links for your convenience.
0 kommentar(er)
